Stephen Brown's Arctic Blog

(Written by Trevor Lloyd-Evans) Okpilak river camp, like the two others on the Jago and Canning rivers, looks over a broad mudflat, lagoon and barrier beach system. Here, the rivers from the Brooks Range flow north and meet the Arctic Ocean at the Beaufort Sea in a region of high biological productivity.

Our camp is blessed, although at times it seems otherwise, by five or more major channels and many minor branches of the combined Okpilak and Hula Hula rivers. These braided river systems fan out into 7 km+ of sand, mud and shallow waters as their distributaries carry nutrients to the coast.

During my two week stay here, the brilliant colors of the tundra flowers (yellow Arctic Poppy, red and purple lousewort and creamy-white Dryas) have faded to brown and silver seed heads. The Arctic Sulfur butterflies and the bumblebees are making the most of the waning season of abundance.

Our local breeding birds are now fledging their young, or are close to it. On the freshwater tundra lagoons, clamorous Pacific and Red-throated Loons, Cackling Geese, Tundra Swans and Long-tailed Ducks all have downy chicks. Except for a tardy family of Semipalmated Plovers, most of the locally hatched Pectoral Sandpipers, Semipalmated Sandpipers and Red-necked Phalaropes are at the coast; or already in the first stages of the long migration south.

Here is where Stephen Brown of Manomet, Roy Churchwell of the University of Alaska and Steve Kendall of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge have combined to lead a hardy crew of field biologists in a study of the significant of the coast for migrant shorebirds, and the seasonal differences in timing and breeding success from year to year. 

We count the species, numbers and distribution of shorebirds on the mudflats and we sample invertebrate food. We also mist net Semipalmated Sandpipers which are banded, weighed, measured (and some blood-sampled) to assess length of stay and accumulated triglyceride fat levels.

Then there are the predators; also regularly surveyed. At Okpilak we have ravens, Glaucous Gulls, Parasitic Jaegers, Peregrine Falcons and Snowy Owls from the air. Also Red Foxes, Polar Bears (4) and the fresh tracks of Arctic Wolf and Grizzly Bear in the mud as the big predators follow the abundant Caribou. The carnivorous mammals have also taken their share of nesting shorebird adults, eggs and chicks this summer.

As the seasons are changing, more migrant shorebirds pass through the Okpilak/Hula Hula delta. Whimbrel call their seven-note whistles; Black-bellied and American Golden-Plover, Western, Stilt and Baird’s Sandpipers are frequently seen. None stay long now – even the Semipalmated Sandpipers show rapid population turnover; we seldom resight our banded individuals after two days. As always, the unforgiving arctic winter looms on the horizon and the migrants are all headed south.

Posted by Trevor Lloyd-Evans  Tue, August 16, 2011  Permalink

Shiloh Schulte reflects on his time at the Jago River Delta. Shiloh is working with Roy Churchwell from the University of Alaska-Fairbanks to study shorebirds getting ready for their southward migration.  As the first waves of Semipalmated Sandpipers head south, Shiloh prepares to follow, and shares some of his impressions from his time on the coast with a great crew of Manomet, US Fish and Wildlife, and University of Alaska employees, complete with an extremely memorable Grizzly Bear sighting.

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Posted by Shiloh Schulte  Thu, August 11, 2011  Permalink


 






An Arctic fritillary in a field of wildflowers along the Jago River. Photo by Heather Craig















Eddie Corp (left) and Vitek Jirinec (right) returning victorious from the hunt. Mushroom hunt that is. Nothing better than fresh sauteed wild puffballs, especially when one is starved for fresh food! Photo by Shiloh Schulte
 



 







A blonde grizzly catches the scent of a caribou and calf. The bear jumped down the bluff, swam the river, and chased the caribou downstream for about a kilometer, crossing the river twice more. The caribou had a good head start and the bear eventually gave up, but it was impressive to see how fast they can move. Photos by Shiloh Schulte (left) and Eddie Corp (Right)

 
 









Midnight rainbow over an abandoned freighter at the edge of the town of Kaktovik in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. Photo by Shiloh Schulte




































Eddie Corp contemplates by a campfire backlit by the midnight sun. Photo by Shiloh Schulte.




Posted by Shiloh Schulte  Thu, August 11, 2011  Permalink

Written by Shiloh Schulte for Stephen Brown

Change of plans. According to Roy Churchwell it seems there are not many shorebirds on the Canning River mudflats at the moment. Our last survey on the Jago flats had close to 1000 Semipalmated Sandpipers so the new plan is for Roy to come here to the Jago after he is finished trapping at the Okpilak camp. I am pretty happy about this because I am having a good time here on the Jago. The bird surveys are turning up interesting species like Bar-tailed and Hudsonian Godwits, as well as hundreds of Stilt Sandpipers, Western Sandpipers, Dunlin, Red-necked Phalaropes, and Semipalmated Sandpipers. This crew is also a lot of fun to work with. The Jago crew consists of Heather Craig, Eddie Corp, and Vitek Jirinec. Heather is the crew leader. At 22 Heather is the youngest member of the team but she is a three-year veteran of field work on the Arctic coast, and has the most experience in the area. Both of Heather’s parents are wildlife biologists so she grew up handling birds in remote field camps. Heather has worked for Manomet before and was a huge part of our success on the Natural Resource Damage Assessment project in Louisiana. Eddie Corp is also 22 and on his second year of Arctic field work (the first as a Manomet employee). Eddie grew up in Bethel, Alaska hunting, fishing, and exploring. Quiet and thoughtful, Eddie is usually the first to spot wildlife and is always bringing interesting things back to camp. Born in the Czech Republic, Vitek Jirinec is 25 and another veteran of Arctic field work. Vitek never seems to run out of energy. Even after a full day of work Vitek is always ready to go for a swim or head out across the tundra to look for wildlife. The only time I ever saw Vitek get upset was when he thought he missed seeing a Polar Bear. Of course we were just teasing him because he is kind of obsessed with finding a bear.  Trevor decided to stay at the Okpilak camp to help with bird surveys and invertebrate sampling. Hopefully I will get a chance to talk to him soon and let you know what he has been up to.

On trapping day I hike out to the far end of the Jago river mudflats to meet up with Roy. Slogging across mud and river channels for 5 kilometers takes a while, but on this trip I got a great look at a mother caribou and calf taking refuge from the mosquitoes out on the edge of the flats. We set the nets perpendicular to the shoreline so sandpipers will run into the net wall as they move along the edge of the flats. The plan is to catch one or two birds at a time because we need a blood sample within 20 minutes of capture. While Roy Churchwell and Patrick Herzog (a new field tech that will be heading out to the Canning River camp) band and take blood samples, I will work small groups of sandpipers toward the nets and retrieve captured birds. Getting birds to fly into the nets is a challenge. The nets are almost invisible when set up, but birds have incredible visual acuity and agility. Time and again flocks swerve around or over the nets at the last second. After a few frustrating near-misses I remember a trick to get the birds to fly in. The next time a flock swerves up I throw my hat into the air. Instinctively the flock twists down to avoid the “predator” and suddenly two sandpipers are resting in the net. After that our system worked well for a few hours until the water started rising and it was time to move the nets. Fortunately reinforcements arrived in the form of Vitek and Heather. Our nets make a tiny footprint on a huge mudflat so good placement is crucial. Herding sandpipers is easier with more people and we make steady progress all afternoon. By 7:00pm we are hungry and muddy but we have banded and sampled blood from 16 Semipalmated Sandpipers. Only four more to go to reach our quota. We do not have to catch all 20 today, but the winds are forecast to rise tomorrow and now that we are so close we want to get it done. With the water now dropping we move the net all the way back out to the edge of the water and wait. The birds disperse as we set the nets and for a few minutes it looks like we are going to have to call it quits for the day. Suddenly a small group of sandpipers lifts off the mud and forms up into a tight defensive group twisting and wheeling in the sky. More groups follow and soon the sky is filled with nervous birds. A Parasitic Jaeger flies steadily across the flats ignoring the chaos his presence creates. After the Jaeger passes by the flocks resettle. Right in front of our net! Moving carefully, we spread out behind one group and slowly walk the birds closer and closer to the net wall. When the birds are just a few feet from the net they take flight and scatter. Somehow most of the flock still evades the net with incredible high-speed twists and turns, but one group turns the wrong way and all at once ten Semipalmated Sandpipers are hanging in the net! With so many people on hand retrieving and processing the birds goes quickly and at last a very successful day comes to a close.

 

Late summer and the tundra is blooming. Splashes of color dot the landscape from yellow Arctic Poppies (above), purple Bistort, white Cotton Grass, and dozens of other species.
 

 

A caribou and calf take refuge from the mosquitos at the edge of the Jago River mudflat. A small group is grazing around the mouth of the river, but no sign of the great herds as yet.
 

 

Vitek Jirinec (left) and Eddie Corp (right) crossing a dune field at the mouth of the Jago River
 

 

Vitek Jirinec and Heather Craig take different approaches when gearing up for invertebrate sampling.

 

Mist net in the mist! This mist net is part of a string of nets we set on the Jago River mudflats to catch Semipalmated Sandpipers.

 

 

Shiloh Schulte about to release four Semipalmated Sandpipers at the end of a long trapping day. 

Posted by Shiloh Schulte  Mon, August 8, 2011  Permalink

Red-necked Phalaropes are one of the many shorebird species staging on the Jago River delta. Photo by Shiloh Schulte (taken with an iPhone through a Swarovski scope!)

Welcome back to our Arctic Blog! After a brief respite, our second project of the summer is now underway in the Arctic. Over the past six years, we have been conducting a survey of the entire coastline of the Arctic Refuge, where southbound shorebirds are getting ready for their long flights. At the same time, we have been helping with another project led by Roy Churchwell, a graduate student at the University of Alaska Fairbanks, and his advisor Abby Powell. Roy is studying the distribution of the invertebrates that shorebirds eat, and learning a great deal about how they influence where the birds choose to spend their time. We finished our coastal survey last year, but are still supporting Roy’s project by sending some of our experienced crew to help out with this challenging project. This year, Manomet staffers Trevor Lloyd-Evans and Shiloh Schulte are working with Roy, along with Olivia Hicks, our volunteer from England, and Eddie Corp, from Bethel AK, who also worked at the breeding camp earlier in the season. These four are joining up with the rest of Roy’s crew to survey and band shorebirds, and sample invertebrates at three camps along the Arctic Refuge coastline. Since I’m back at the office working hard on keeping them all funded and organized, Shiloh and Trevor will be updating you on their work as Roy’s project progresses. Enjoy this first post from Shiloh!


Shiloh Schulte heading out along the flats on a warm and windy morning. When temperatures rise above 50 degrees mosquito protection is usually essential. On this morning the wind kept the bugs at bay and I was able to go out in short sleeves. Extra layers in the pack of course. Photo by Shiloh Schulte


Written by
Shiloh Schulte for Stephen Brown

“Well you can try the clearance racks, but there is not much call for that item this time of year”. The thermometer outside the L.L. Bean store in Freeport, Maine stands at 101 degrees and I am trying to buy three sets of thermal underwear. Elaine, the saleswoman, watches me dubiously as I make my way to the back of the men’s clothing department. No luck. Two stores later I finally find what I need at Cabela’s, and my Arctic outfitting is complete. Fast forward five days and I am glad to be wearing the extra layer as I wade into the Arctic Ocean with three other crew members and launch the Zodiac on our way to the Jago River field camp on the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. 

It has been 14 years since my last visit to the Arctic. I was 18 and somehow managed to land a job on a field crew on the Colville River in Northern Alaska studying Lapland Longspurs, Loons, and Shorebirds. I was hooked. A series of field jobs and my graduate work followed, but I never managed to find a way to get back to the tundra. Last year I was prepared to come north as part of Manomet’s team working on the fall shorebird study, but by July I was deeply immersed in Manomet’s assessment of damage to shorebirds as a result of the Deepwater Horizon oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico.


The Jago River crew heads out into the Beaufort Sea. Photo by Vitek Jirinec


Five minutes out from Kaktovik, our boat motor suddenly loses power and we quickly discover that the cooling system has failed or clogged. A 20 minute trip becomes 60 as we creep along to prevent the engine from overheating. The crew takes the setback in stride and when we finally arrive at camp we get to work quickly. Eddie stays in camp to work on the motor while Heather and Vitek, the other two UAF crew members, and I head out to the mudflats to sample invertebrates.

Invertebrate sampling is cold, muddy work, but the data will tell us how much food is available for shorebirds on the Jago River delta. Photo by Vitek Jirinec. In the photo: Heather Craig

 

It is late summer in the Arctic and many shorebirds have left their nesting sites to head north to the extensive coastal mudflats. Here they will “stage” in large flocks, foraging day and night to gain weight for their long southward migration. The fall shorebird study is designed to discover how many shorebirds of each species are using these flats, what they are eating, and how much food is available. To answer these questions we have to act like shorebirds. This means getting down and dirty as we extract a series of mud and water samples from a seemingly endless series of plots on the huge Jago River mudflat. These samples will be analyzed for invertebrate abundance and diversity, which in turn will tell us how much food is available for shorebirds.


The Brooks Range frames the Jago River field camp on a beautiful day in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (photo by Shiloh Schulte)

Returning to camp hours later we discover that repairing the motor was not possible with the tools we have on site. Eddie has already made some calls with the satellite phone and we should have additional support to fix or replace the motor tomorrow or the day after. No worries. In the meantime this just means more walking when we head out in the morning for the next shorebird survey.  

And walk we do! The mudflat at the mouth of the Jago River is over 2 kilometers wide and 5 kilometers long. The survey protocol calls for us to census all shorebirds on the flat every three days. In practice this means criss-crossing the flat systematically from one end to the other. Heather and I set out early in the morning, while Eddie and Vitek prepare for another day of muddy invertebrate samples (rotation decided by scissors-paper-rock). By the end of the day Heather and I have walked for eight hours and spent three hours looking through a scope. Our survey was a success though. A rare day of light wind and clear skies made for ideal bird watching conditions and we counted hundreds of shorebirds, most of which were young Semipalmated Sandpipers. The Semipalmated Sandpiper population has declined sharply in recent years for reasons that are still largely unclear. Disturbance and loss of habitat at migration and winter staging areas may be responsible, but part of the answer might lie here on the Arctic mudflats. These newly fledged sandpipers need to pack on weight quickly before the short summer is over. As the Arctic climate warms, more glacial meltwater is released into the rivers on the North Slope. The influx of fresh water might be enough to shift the available feeding habitat or even change the salinity of the mudflats, which in turn, might affect the invertebrates on which the Semipalmated Sandpipers and other shorebirds rely. Hopefully the abundance of young Semipalmated Sandpipers on our survey is a reflection of a good breeding season. We will not know though until the data are in from the rest of the season, both here on the Jago and from partners conducting surveys all across the Arctic.

Returning to camp footsore and tired we find that Eddie and Vitek finished before us, so dinner is hot and ready! A good end to the day. Did I say end? Not with this crew. After dinner Vitek proposes a polar plunge in a permafrost pond near camp. “Near” is a relative term however, as the closest pond is almost a kilometer away. For some reason we head out anyway and find a suitably deep and freezing pond. No way to do it slowly – in rapid succession we cannonball into the pond and emerge gasping to pull on dry clothes and sprint back to camp.

Sometime in the next couple of days I should be heading out to the Canning River camp to re-join Trevor Lloyd-Evans and Roy Churchwell and begin shorebird trapping. We will band the birds and take blood samples which will be analyzed to see how quickly the birds are gaining weight. I will miss the seemingly inexhaustible energy and high spirits of the Jago River crew, but I am excited to see a new and more remote site and get the trapping underway. I will check back in when I can with a report from the Canning River delta.



Grizzly tracks (left) and Wolf tracks (right) on the flats east of camp. Photos by Vitek Jirinec and Shiloh Schulte

Posted by Shiloh Schulte  Mon, August 1, 2011  Permalink

Brad Winn reports live from the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge while waiting for the Fish and Wildlife Service Plane to pick him up for the three-hour flight south to Fairbanks. He leaves a smaller field crew to monitor the 220 shorebird nests that have been located in the study area of the lower Canning River Delta. Despite the presence of predators seen daily by the research team, the majority of the eggs appear to be doing well, and the first are beginning to hatch. Chicks will be escorted and periodically warmed by an attendant adult for several weeks, but most young shorebirds are left to fend for themselves by adults who migrate south by late July or early August. The young congregate at the Refuge’s river deltas before they too migrate, where large mud flats support the insect larvae that the shorebirds depend upon.

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Posted by Brad Winn  Fri, July 8, 2011  Permalink